Pinnacle Ridge & Helvellyn

This weekend I was in the Lakes helping to run a training course for some members of WLSMG who are heading to the Canadian Rockies in the summer. Saturday I took a mixed ability group up the ever classic Pinnacle Ridge on St. Sunday crag and then continued on a circuit round, dropping down to Grisedale Tarn and then up over Dollywagon, Nethermost Pike and finally Helvellyn. We had intended to descend Striding edge but decided to the winds and icing on the ridge that it would safer to head north and instead drop off the main ridgeline into Glenridding. I've put together a small video of the day below:

It was pretty cold out during the day and we consistently experienced hail and snow showers so winter is certainly on its way. The turf on the summit of Helvellyn was looking frozen although nothing on the Red Tarn face was anywhere near in condition yet but it looks like hat might have changed over the last 24 hours as Paddy Cave has been out on Bowfell Buttress today.

Patagonia R1 Hoody - Review

The R1 Hoody is perhaps one of my favourite pieces of outdoor clothing so after 18 months of use I’m going to offer my thoughts on it here. This is Patagonia’s run down of the product:

The minimalist R1® Hoody follows our guiding design principle: Perfection is achieved when there's nothing left to take away. Alpinists and backcountry skiers live in this finely tuned, versatile favorite that's made of Polartec® Power Dry® polyester with a high/low grid interior. The fabric provides enhanced breathability, superb compressibility and stretch, has a terrific feel, and remains durable and warm. Its design features the pared-down detailing that avid climbers and backcountry skiers need - from the deep-venting front zipper that's offset at the face, to wrist-warming thumb loops, to the snug-fitting balaclava-style hood. With raglan sleeves for pack-wearing comfort, an exterior chest pocket and low-grid stretch polyester at the cuffs and bottom hem for minimal bulk under a harness.

The first regulator garment that I bought was a R1 Flashpullover back in 2006, it’s a sort of cross between the R1 hoody and the pullover in the current line. It has the more sculpted and longer fit of the hoody and the lighter stretch fleece in the cuffs, round the lower torso and under the arms but lacks the thumb loops and hood. I don’t know the exact number but I wouldn’t be surprised if this top had seen more than 150 days use. It’s been used as a midlayer while skiing, a stretchy cragging top on cooler days, a super warm baselayer in really cold conditions and now my girlfriend occasional dons it as pyjames on cold nights! I’m a little disappointed that Patagonia has dropped this from their current line as I feel it’s a significant step up from the regular pullover because of the longer cut, and small features like the offset neck and zoned use of fabrics. I’m guessing their logic behind this is that the regular pullover, without those aforementioned features are cheaper to make and anybody who does desire them will buy the hoody and probably benefit from the hood and longer cut as well. In a perfect world I guess we’d have all three, but Patagonia can’t have an infinite range.

Cragging in Sqamish,BC in my Flash pullover.

After using and abusing the Flash for so long I decided that it was time to replace it with a hoody, and eventually about 18 months ago I managed to find the elusive item in Patagonia’s outlet shop in Salt Lake City, Utah. It soon became clear that this was indeed going to be an upgrade rather than a replacement for my old Flash pullover.

Let’s talk about the material first. It uses a high/low grid interior made of Polertec’s Power Dry supplemented my Capilene stretch panels on the waist to minimalize bulk under a harness and around the cuffs and thumb loops to have the same effect under gloves. Because of the grid design it is noticeably more breathable then other standard fleeces, it also means that it’s is comfortable to wear next to the skin in in moister conditions.

Sport climbing on a cool day in the Saas valley in Switzerland with the R1 Hoody.

The hood, there weren’t up until a few years ago a lot of hooded fleeces out on the market and Patagonia were ahead of their time with the original release of the R1 Hoody and when they brought it back I feel they were still ahead of the game as its only in the last few years that we’ve seen other companies start to copy the design with couple of examples being the Berghaus Smoulder Hoody and Rab’s Shadow Hoody. I also hear Mountain Hardwear has a similar piece in the pipeline which has been designed in conjunction with Ueli Steck. While the hood isn’t a replacement balaclava as it doesn’t cover the face entirely it gets pretty close to it. My routine at the bottom of a winter route is pull the hood up under my helmet as it keeps my head nice and warm and stops spindrift going down my back. The offset zipper means is comfortable to wear all the time as you have no zipper rubbing against your chin. The zipper itself its nice and deep, deeper than most pullover tops which allows for excellent venting and dumping of heat if it gets too hot.

Winter climbing on Aonach Mor with the Hoody as a midlayer.

This is a climbing garment so it is perhaps prudent to mention that the combination of the stretch properties of the fabric and superb cut mean that his garment doesn’t restrict movement at all. Mine is a snug size small and I still don’t feel restricted all, even when using it as a midlayer. It’s also comfortable to wear having flat lock seams which are cleverly positioned away from areas where they might rub or chafe. Predominantly this is a winter climbing top for me, check out my article here to see what I wear in conjunction with.

The workmanship, being Patagonia is second to none. This top has probably seen 50 days of use, having climbed 35 routes in the UK last winter, and seen two summers in the Alps and has little wear to show for it apart from a little balling of the fabric, and to be honest I expected this. My Flash pullover which is now 6-7 years old and has been my go to cragging to top for the last few is still wearable now despite the fabric being quite heavily balled and two small holes appearing in the chest – I’ve certainly had my money’s worth though.

Belaying on Tower Ridge, Ben Nevis with the hood up under a helmet.

Yes, £120 is a lot for a fleece. But you not just getting a fleece, your getting a super versatile piece of clothing that will probably last you for quite a long time. If you don’t have one, and you do any winter or alpine climbing I cans seriously recommend them and guarantee that you won’t be disappointed.

Gimmer Crag

The day after our evening at the Kendal Film Festival we decided yo head out in the Lakes to try and get a final bit mountain route in before everything takes on its winter guise. We arrived in the Old Dungeon Ghyll and sorted gear, I was climbing with Bec and Joe and Andy were climbing together. It was cold but reasonably dry so we decided to head up to Gimmer.

Sorting gear in the ODG car park.

Bec and myself did Asterisk VS 4b which I led. Its a superb long pitch climbing the full height of the lower North West face on steep, just off vertical terrain but where good holds, or good gear is never that far away. In character its very similar to its neighbouring route North West Arete if a little easier perhaps. I topped out on Ash Tree ledge and brought Bec up and we had a bite to eat and warmed our hands before she set off up the first pitch 'D' Route S+ ***.

Andy on Ash Tree Ledge.

I'd wanted to do either F Route or Kipling Groove however both were green and damp so I guess it will be summer before I come back to get them. I've done D Route before but once again it didn't fail to dissapoint, being high on the face of Gimmer and steep for the grade. Bec belayed at the block belay, after having a little moment on the crux and then I came up and led on through to the top.

Bec leading high on Gimmer in the evening sun.

We abseiled on the chain at the top back down to Ash Tree Ledge, and then off the ledge back down the North West Face to our sacks, starting the walk out just as we were loosing the light. A few pints in the ODG and we headed back to Lancaster. Joe and Andy did Ash Tree Slabs VD and seemed to have a good time on that.

The Moonflower

Friday evening, Bec and myself along with a few other friends from Lancaster took the train up to Kendal to catch the premier of The Moonflower new film from Posing Productions. Jon Bracey and Matt Helliker were there, along with Alastair Lee who introduced the film. It chronicles there ascent of a new route on the North Buttress of Mt. Hunter in the Alaska Range. which they named the Cartwright Connection in honour of Jules Cartwright, a British Mountain Guide who tragically died while guiding the Piz Badile a few years ago.You can see the trailer below:

Cartwright originally envisaged the line as a companion to his route The Knowledge ED4 on the same buttress, which he climbed with Ian Parnell in 2000, although feeling that the climbing on this new line may be of a more sustained nature. In may of this year Jon Bracey and Matt Helliker set out to complete this line, which they did.

The Cartwright Connection, Alaskan
 Grade 6: 5.8 A2 AI6 M6, 2000m 

I won't ruin much of the story now as I think its best saved for when you watch the film, which I think it great. The lack of footage of a lot of the actual climbing, and the quality of the camera work done by the climbers could be criticised but I think this gives a real raw look at what climbing a bit alpine route it like. I think Alastair Lee might of been a little short on footage to work with as I'm pretty sure I saw some of winter climbing on the Ben at one point that he'd subtly woven in! On the other hand, some of the aerial footage and time-lapse photography that accompany that taken by the climbers is very impressive.


Bracey and Helliker climbed the route in a clean but slow style, carrying a portaledge and plenty of food. It will be interesting to see however in the coming future if this route has the potential to be climbed fast and light in a single push style as some of the route on Hunter, and many of the other big mixed test pieces in the Alaska range already have.


So, an excellent achievement for the alpinisits and a great film. I highly recccomend buying the DVD or downloading it from posing productions here. It's certainly solidified by ambition for a trip to Alaska.

Quayfoot Buttress and Raven Crag

Last weekend was Lancaster University Mountaineering Club's freshers weekend in the Lake District so as a alumni member I headed along with a few other expats to give them a few extra leaders for the weekend. The forecast was poor for Saturday, wet and windy for most of the day so I decided on an easy route reletively close to the car. Most people were heading to Borrowdale so we decided on Quayfoot Buttress VD on the crag of the same name.

Leading the first pitch of Quayfoot Buttress.

I was climbing with Martin and Dominic both who had done a little indoor climbing before but never climbed outside. The route was very wet and it showered on us while we were on the rock. The route was also very dirty and slimy have a lot of dirt washed down onto it. I think perhaps it would deserve its classic reputation if done on a sunny warm midsummer day but in the depths of autumn it certainly did not.

Bec at a cold Raven Crag.

Sunday the forecast was a little more promising so we headed to Raven Crag in Langdale where I repeated Original Route S with Bec and Martin before doing Centipede S 4a which I haven't done before with Richard and Martin. Centipede was a lovely route for the grade. Unfortunately in my rush to get down to the Old Dungeon Ghyll for a pint I completely forgot to disassemble my belay at the top and only realised this while taking my first sips of the aforementioned pint. A run in the dark back up to the top of the crag inevitably followed...

Gouther Crag

Monday I headed out to Gouther Crag near Shap with Gaz and Claire. We got Hernia E1 5b and Sostenuto HVS+ 5a before having a play on Bloodhound E2 5c and One Step Beyond E3 6a.


We've got some footage from the day which I'm going to try and compile into a small film if I get the time.

Back to Borrowdale: Black Crag & Shephards

Ash, Martin and myself headed up to Borrowdale for the day last Saturday to try and catch what we thought could be the last good day of sunny climbing before we end up in the depths of Autumn. First up was Black Crag, I've climbed quite a few times at Black Crag but only ever done Troutdale Pinnacle, usually in the rain with novices in tow.

On the pinnacle of Black Crag.

We decided on Troutdale Pinnacle Superdirect HVS 5a***. Martin took the first lead up some slabs and then a traverse across to meet up with the first belay of the normal route. Above this I then lead a 4c pitch which was uneventful. Ash then did the 3rd pitch which is a steep 5a offwidth crack, seconding I actually found it easier to climb the face on the left hand side but this could be a touch bold on lead. I then took the 4th which is the second 5a pitch and listed as the crux in the guidebook, a finger traverse along a thin crack followed by some steep moves up to the pinnacle. I thought it wasn't too stiff for 5a and it well protected throughout. Martin then did the final honours of finishing up the last pitch of the normal route to the top.

Martin leading the top pitch with blue skies overhead.

We packed gear, headed down to the car and drove down to Shepherd's cafe where we refuelled with cake before heading up to the crag to tackle the two pitch P.S. E1 5b **. I did the first pitch which was 5a but felt pretty steep and sustained ending up at rather cramped peg belay. Ash and Martin followed having similar difficulties with Martin popping off at one point and taking a chunk out of his finger. Ash then did the top pitch with is shorter but with one tricky 5b move. It is a bit of a one move wonder, and it is well protected with two good pieces but that doesn't take much away from it, after a few goes and a few rests working out wear to go Ash got through it and then me and Martin followed. Excellent fun.

Adventure Racing - Splash & Dash

Last Sunday I took part in an adventure race in the Lake District run by West Lancashire Scouts. Its run a relay race for younger members with each team supplying a pair to compete in each stage and then pass the baton on to the next pair until the final stage which is a group fell run. There are however a limited number of places available for pair to enter and complete the entire race. I did this a few years ago with Martin Freeman and we did fairly well, only thwarted by a chain malfunction on the bike stage. We decided to give it another go this year and added Stuart Spencer to our ranks to make a trio.


We headed up on Saturday during the heatwave with our support driver Mark Fonze Gilham and got in a few hours cragging at Trowbarrow on the way (Assagai HVS 5a, Sluice HVS 5a & Coral Sea VS 4c) before picking up a curry from Windermere and heading to the briefing.

Myself sea kayaking on Windermere.

The next morning we were the last to set off in the starting placings. The first event was a orienteering course around great tower campsite, followed by a run down to a staging area on the southern banks of Windermere. we did the course fairly quickly and managed to tick all the controls. Next up was the canadian canoeing, up the eastern shores of the lake.

Martin dibbing as we left the Bike section start.

Once we reached the end canoeing section we jumped out of our boats and into sea kayaks, paddling another course which led us to the western shores of the lake. This was the start of the mountain biking course which took us through Grizedale forest, over the top of Lake Coniston ending up at Tilberthwaite. 

Finishing the bike section at Tilberthwaite.

Here we had to complete a mental challenge, which as definitely our week point. From here started the final leg, which was in atrocious weather a run from Tilberthwaite up and over the fells and down in Coniston. We came 2nd in the rankings, and only by a matter of minutes which over a 6 hours race we thought was pretty good. Had it of not been for our downfalling on the mental challenge I think we would of won.

Struggling with anagrams.

It was an excellent day and a big thanks to all those that organised it, I'm sure we'll be back next year.

Gowder Crag

Bec, having just got back from Germany was keen to make the most of the end of the summer and head out climbing so along with some friends with headed to Borrowdale. We decided upon Gowder Crag, which sits just north of Shepherd's Crag something I've never climbed before.

Myself leading the first pitch.

We decided on Fools Paradise VS 4c which is 6 pitches in the guidebook, we were using Lake District Rock, the select guide for the area of which this route is the only one in it for the crag. I was climbing with Jonny and Bec, and due to my inadequate packing skills the evening before I'd forgotten to pack Bec's rock shoes, which I meant I had to lead everything, and she had to climb VS in boots which she ended up doing a very good job of!

Bec enjoying VS chimney climbing in boots.

I ran the first two together, of which the first was a little green and mossy but it soon got better. The third pitch was a interesting traverse involving a bit of smear which Bec took a little tumble on being in boots. Next up was a steep groove pitch, another traverse and then the final back-foot classic chimney to finish. While I thought the route was quite soft at the grade it was really varied which made it interesting. One thing to note is that if your planning on going to do it there is quite a bit of loose debris below the final pitch due to some recent rock fall so be careful. I skipped the belay here to avoid anybody having to loiter around on the ledge and potentially knock anything off.

Enjoying a apres-climb cake in Shephards Cafe.

Gogarth,The Pass and Bolted Abseil Stations

On bank holiday Monday myself and Stubbs headed down to Anglesey for some sea cliff action. The forecast was mediocre, predicting dry weather but windy at times. We arrived being first car at the car park and it was indeed very windy so we decided to forgo our original objective of Dream of White Horses on Wen Zawn the coveted Hard Rock tick.

Abbing in at Castell Helen.

Instead we headed over to the south stack and the Castell Helen abseil point and headed down to do Lighthouse Arete VS 4c*. A long abseil down to the small alcove just above the sea got us to the first stance, from here I ran the first two together before Stubbs took the third and then myself the final fourth pitch. The climbing is superb wonderful, exposed but with good gear and big holds if perhaps quite easy for the grade - I don't know if it really warranted the 4c.

Leading Lighthouse Arete.

While I'm on the subject of Castell Helen I thought it might be prudent to bring up the extremely conciousness issue of bolted belays or abseil stations in the UK. The abseil station at the top consists of half a dozen old, rusted pegs (not to mention the remnants of a few snapped ones) some clipped with glued up screwgates all equalised with various bits of tat and in truth is looks like a god awful mess and perhaps an accident waiting to happen. We backed it up with some of our own gear for piece of mind and I'd advise that to anybody using it.

Current state of the Castell Helen abseil station. Photo credit UKC.

Having spent a lot of time climbing in both North America and Europe where bolted belays and abseil stations are common place I can't help but ask myself shouldn't this be replaced by a simple set up of two bolts and a chain? In my eyes it would be cleaner and more aesthetically pleasing than the above abomination and also safer. Its been done else where such as the chain on Gimmer Crag in Langdale so why not here. Perhaps the biggest counter argument would be  that it could encourage less experienced people to use it and end being out of there depth of a serious sea cliff. Another issue would be where would the line be drawn, I am by no means at advocate of bolting routes entirely or even there belays but places like Castell Helen (the belay at the top of Mirror Direct in Coire an t'Scneachda would be another example) could perhaps benefit from a few bolts. Thoughts?

Back at the car after Ribstone Crack.

After finishing up headed home via the Llanberris pass and did Ribstone Crack VS 4c on Carreg Wasted which was great and bit of a contrast to our previous route as it felt pretty stiff at the grade. I managed to lead it all in one long pitch on 60m ropes with little rope drag as its a fairly straight line. Good climbing.