Langdale Mountaineering

The forecast for the weekend was good, with the UK finally getting a little high pressure and temperatures dropping and skies clearing. Unfortunately due to a prior engagement on the Saturday I was unable to make it to Scotland for the weekend which was a shame as it seemed like the place to be. Instead, Sunday morning Ash, Bec and myself headed up to Langdale.

Raven Crag and a frosty Langdale in the morning.

We left the Old Dungeon Ghyll car park and headed straight up to the base of Raven Crag where roped up and set up off up Middlefell Buttress D. It was bright and sunny however the rock was cold (but not too cold) and there was a chill breeze. We moved together with Ash leading, Bec following and myself at the back. Once we reached the final steep wall we swapped round and I took over the lead. We then moved across to follow a continuation on the buttress just to the right the top of Middlefell for another 100m or so until we reached easy ground.

Getting lured in by Gimmer Crag.

Our original plan for the day had been to do the scramble on Thorn Crag before heading over to do another scramble on the face of Pike of Stickle. As we approached Thorn Crag though we couldn't take our eyes off Gimmer which looked awesome in the morning sunshine so decided, despite only having one rope and a very minimal scrambling rack to go and have a go at Gimmer Chimney.

Myself leading up Gimmer Chimney.

We managed to do Gimmer Chimney VD+ in two long pitches and little bit of alpine trickery. I led the first long pitch to the base of the chimney which I thought felt a little stiff however this probably had something to do with the fact it was extremely cold, I was in boots and that the rock was verglassed in places. I'm quite glad to have ticked it off as I'd never climbed it before, and I do always enjoy climbing on Gimmer, its a fantastic crag.

Walking off Gimmer Crag, Langdale valley below and Windemere in the distance.

We descended back down to the car and then proceeded to spend the rest of the afternoon drinking, eating and gear perusing in Ambleside.

Gimmer Crag

The day after our evening at the Kendal Film Festival we decided yo head out in the Lakes to try and get a final bit mountain route in before everything takes on its winter guise. We arrived in the Old Dungeon Ghyll and sorted gear, I was climbing with Bec and Joe and Andy were climbing together. It was cold but reasonably dry so we decided to head up to Gimmer.

Sorting gear in the ODG car park.

Bec and myself did Asterisk VS 4b which I led. Its a superb long pitch climbing the full height of the lower North West face on steep, just off vertical terrain but where good holds, or good gear is never that far away. In character its very similar to its neighbouring route North West Arete if a little easier perhaps. I topped out on Ash Tree ledge and brought Bec up and we had a bite to eat and warmed our hands before she set off up the first pitch 'D' Route S+ ***.

Andy on Ash Tree Ledge.

I'd wanted to do either F Route or Kipling Groove however both were green and damp so I guess it will be summer before I come back to get them. I've done D Route before but once again it didn't fail to dissapoint, being high on the face of Gimmer and steep for the grade. Bec belayed at the block belay, after having a little moment on the crux and then I came up and led on through to the top.

Bec leading high on Gimmer in the evening sun.

We abseiled on the chain at the top back down to Ash Tree Ledge, and then off the ledge back down the North West Face to our sacks, starting the walk out just as we were loosing the light. A few pints in the ODG and we headed back to Lancaster. Joe and Andy did Ash Tree Slabs VD and seemed to have a good time on that.

Quayfoot Buttress and Raven Crag

Last weekend was Lancaster University Mountaineering Club's freshers weekend in the Lake District so as a alumni member I headed along with a few other expats to give them a few extra leaders for the weekend. The forecast was poor for Saturday, wet and windy for most of the day so I decided on an easy route reletively close to the car. Most people were heading to Borrowdale so we decided on Quayfoot Buttress VD on the crag of the same name.

Leading the first pitch of Quayfoot Buttress.

I was climbing with Martin and Dominic both who had done a little indoor climbing before but never climbed outside. The route was very wet and it showered on us while we were on the rock. The route was also very dirty and slimy have a lot of dirt washed down onto it. I think perhaps it would deserve its classic reputation if done on a sunny warm midsummer day but in the depths of autumn it certainly did not.

Bec at a cold Raven Crag.

Sunday the forecast was a little more promising so we headed to Raven Crag in Langdale where I repeated Original Route S with Bec and Martin before doing Centipede S 4a which I haven't done before with Richard and Martin. Centipede was a lovely route for the grade. Unfortunately in my rush to get down to the Old Dungeon Ghyll for a pint I completely forgot to disassemble my belay at the top and only realised this while taking my first sips of the aforementioned pint. A run in the dark back up to the top of the crag inevitably followed...

Gouther Crag

Monday I headed out to Gouther Crag near Shap with Gaz and Claire. We got Hernia E1 5b and Sostenuto HVS+ 5a before having a play on Bloodhound E2 5c and One Step Beyond E3 6a.


We've got some footage from the day which I'm going to try and compile into a small film if I get the time.

Back to Borrowdale: Black Crag & Shephards

Ash, Martin and myself headed up to Borrowdale for the day last Saturday to try and catch what we thought could be the last good day of sunny climbing before we end up in the depths of Autumn. First up was Black Crag, I've climbed quite a few times at Black Crag but only ever done Troutdale Pinnacle, usually in the rain with novices in tow.

On the pinnacle of Black Crag.

We decided on Troutdale Pinnacle Superdirect HVS 5a***. Martin took the first lead up some slabs and then a traverse across to meet up with the first belay of the normal route. Above this I then lead a 4c pitch which was uneventful. Ash then did the 3rd pitch which is a steep 5a offwidth crack, seconding I actually found it easier to climb the face on the left hand side but this could be a touch bold on lead. I then took the 4th which is the second 5a pitch and listed as the crux in the guidebook, a finger traverse along a thin crack followed by some steep moves up to the pinnacle. I thought it wasn't too stiff for 5a and it well protected throughout. Martin then did the final honours of finishing up the last pitch of the normal route to the top.

Martin leading the top pitch with blue skies overhead.

We packed gear, headed down to the car and drove down to Shepherd's cafe where we refuelled with cake before heading up to the crag to tackle the two pitch P.S. E1 5b **. I did the first pitch which was 5a but felt pretty steep and sustained ending up at rather cramped peg belay. Ash and Martin followed having similar difficulties with Martin popping off at one point and taking a chunk out of his finger. Ash then did the top pitch with is shorter but with one tricky 5b move. It is a bit of a one move wonder, and it is well protected with two good pieces but that doesn't take much away from it, after a few goes and a few rests working out wear to go Ash got through it and then me and Martin followed. Excellent fun.

Gowder Crag

Bec, having just got back from Germany was keen to make the most of the end of the summer and head out climbing so along with some friends with headed to Borrowdale. We decided upon Gowder Crag, which sits just north of Shepherd's Crag something I've never climbed before.

Myself leading the first pitch.

We decided on Fools Paradise VS 4c which is 6 pitches in the guidebook, we were using Lake District Rock, the select guide for the area of which this route is the only one in it for the crag. I was climbing with Jonny and Bec, and due to my inadequate packing skills the evening before I'd forgotten to pack Bec's rock shoes, which I meant I had to lead everything, and she had to climb VS in boots which she ended up doing a very good job of!

Bec enjoying VS chimney climbing in boots.

I ran the first two together, of which the first was a little green and mossy but it soon got better. The third pitch was a interesting traverse involving a bit of smear which Bec took a little tumble on being in boots. Next up was a steep groove pitch, another traverse and then the final back-foot classic chimney to finish. While I thought the route was quite soft at the grade it was really varied which made it interesting. One thing to note is that if your planning on going to do it there is quite a bit of loose debris below the final pitch due to some recent rock fall so be careful. I skipped the belay here to avoid anybody having to loiter around on the ledge and potentially knock anything off.

Enjoying a apres-climb cake in Shephards Cafe.

Gogarth,The Pass and Bolted Abseil Stations

On bank holiday Monday myself and Stubbs headed down to Anglesey for some sea cliff action. The forecast was mediocre, predicting dry weather but windy at times. We arrived being first car at the car park and it was indeed very windy so we decided to forgo our original objective of Dream of White Horses on Wen Zawn the coveted Hard Rock tick.

Abbing in at Castell Helen.

Instead we headed over to the south stack and the Castell Helen abseil point and headed down to do Lighthouse Arete VS 4c*. A long abseil down to the small alcove just above the sea got us to the first stance, from here I ran the first two together before Stubbs took the third and then myself the final fourth pitch. The climbing is superb wonderful, exposed but with good gear and big holds if perhaps quite easy for the grade - I don't know if it really warranted the 4c.

Leading Lighthouse Arete.

While I'm on the subject of Castell Helen I thought it might be prudent to bring up the extremely conciousness issue of bolted belays or abseil stations in the UK. The abseil station at the top consists of half a dozen old, rusted pegs (not to mention the remnants of a few snapped ones) some clipped with glued up screwgates all equalised with various bits of tat and in truth is looks like a god awful mess and perhaps an accident waiting to happen. We backed it up with some of our own gear for piece of mind and I'd advise that to anybody using it.

Current state of the Castell Helen abseil station. Photo credit UKC.

Having spent a lot of time climbing in both North America and Europe where bolted belays and abseil stations are common place I can't help but ask myself shouldn't this be replaced by a simple set up of two bolts and a chain? In my eyes it would be cleaner and more aesthetically pleasing than the above abomination and also safer. Its been done else where such as the chain on Gimmer Crag in Langdale so why not here. Perhaps the biggest counter argument would be  that it could encourage less experienced people to use it and end being out of there depth of a serious sea cliff. Another issue would be where would the line be drawn, I am by no means at advocate of bolting routes entirely or even there belays but places like Castell Helen (the belay at the top of Mirror Direct in Coire an t'Scneachda would be another example) could perhaps benefit from a few bolts. Thoughts?

Back at the car after Ribstone Crack.

After finishing up headed home via the Llanberris pass and did Ribstone Crack VS 4c on Carreg Wasted which was great and bit of a contrast to our previous route as it felt pretty stiff at the grade. I managed to lead it all in one long pitch on 60m ropes with little rope drag as its a fairly straight line. Good climbing.

Classic Rock: Raven, Napes & Pen Y Ghent

Another weekend with a relatively poor forecast saw myself and Stubbs head to the Lakes to see what we could get done.

Myself leading the final pitch of Bilberry Buttress VS.

Friday actually started out with some pleasant sunshine as we left Lancashire at midday however by the time we had reached Langdale the clouds had come in and started to look rather grey and the wind had picked up. We decided on taking a gamble that we could get up Pluto HVS 5a on Raven crag before it got any worst. I led up the lovely 4c corner crack which has some good jamming and laybacking and then Stubbs did the 4c traverse which was also nice. With just the crux left the wind decided to pick up and the spitting rain started to get heavier so we finished up the final easier 4b pitch of BilberryButtress. A rapid pack up and sprint down to the Old Dungeon Ghyll soon had us sipping ale watching the now monsoon like rain from underneath a umbrella.

The Napes on Great Gable.

Saturday morning we woke up in the back of the Vectra to what looked like a promising day. With knowledge of the forecast we still decided to play it safe so drove over to Wasdale head with the intention of heading up to the Napes on Great Gable. We did the approach relatively quickly and then the climbers approach before finally scrambling up to the bottom of Napes Needle. Stubbs's lead the first section up the Wasdale Crack HS 4b* which was a fairly green, moist, polished struggle and belayed at the shoulder. I then came up and led the top block, which was less moist, but more polished. Stubbs came up, we stood on the top, had photos from some nice passers by.

Stubbs coming up the final moves to the top of Napes Needle.

Stubbs then down-climbed back to the saddle re-clipping the gear before I dis-assembled the belay and reversed the route also. We then abseiled off from the tat thats at the shoulder stance. The route was ok, and I'm glad to have of done it as it perhaps one of, if not 'the' classic route in the UK. Some say its the place where climbing actually started with its first (solo) ascent. It was however smaller than I was expecting and it didn't really feeling that exposed. Perhaps climbing a lot in the Alps and other alpine regions of the world desensitizes you to these sort of things. If your a British climber and you've not done it then it is certainly a must, but I don't think its a route I'll be repeating for pleasure in the near future.

Both Stubbs and Myself on the top. I always told him i was taller.

We were both getting pretty cold at this point so we roped up and to warm up we moved together up Needle Ridge VD***. The climbing is good but after the first steep sections becomes a little easy and dis-jointed so it was nice to be moving together and quickly. We topped out in ever increasing winds and headed down Great Hell Gate to the bottom Tophet Wall our third objective for the day. Unfortunately just as we'd put the packs down the spitting rain evolved into a similar monsoonal shower that we saw the previous day, deja vu. A fast descent scree running led us down to the valley where we proceeded to run back to Wasdale Head, arriving back at the car absolutely soaked to the skin.

Final section of Needle Ridge, with Wasdale and the sea in the background.

We woke up on Sunday morning, after it hadn't really stopped raining since it started the previous afternoon and decided to try and climb anything in the Lakes would be pretty foolish and probably not that enjoyable so instead we drove to Yorkshire to do Red Pencil Direct HS 4b on Pen Y Ghent one of the last Classic Rock ticks left in the North for both of us.

Stubbsy, showcasing his love of British weather.

Surprisingly, considering we had not got a map of the area bar a 1:250,000 AA road map and no guidebook, and all we knew was that it was a 30m pitch of gritstone climbing somewhere on the side of Pen Y Ghent with a 1-1.5 hour walk in all went well. We approached by the summit, overtaking many many ramblers, then descended and traversed into the crag as the clag came in and stumbled upon what we deiced was the route. If it wasn't for the fact that the rock was pretty wet and green the climb would of been really good and I can completely see why its in Ken Wilson's book. It is however quite a long way to walk for one pitch of climbing.

Me leading Red Pencil.

So, while the weather could of been kinder, a good weekend where we still managed to get a reasonable amount done.

Langdale: Gimmer & Pavey

The forecast was mediocre for Sunday, predicting cool, cloudy weather with a chance of showers and the possibility of sunny spells in the afternoon. After coming back from the Alps and not doing much for two weeks I fancied a big day in the mountains getting in some climbing and some summits.

Looking up to Gimmer Crag.

We left the Old Dungean Ghyll car park at around 10:30pm and headed up Mickeldore before striking off up to Gimmer Crag. We got a few showers on the way up but there was a breeze and things seemed to dry off quite quickly. Once at the foot of the lower section of the north west face we decided on North West Arete VS 4b*** to get us up to Ash Tree ledge. The route was excellent with some great varied climbing, starting with face climbing, before a crack and then a stiff move through an overhang before finishing up the wonderfully exposed arete. The top section was a little spicy as it started to rain just as I'd reached the arete. The main pitch is also a long way of fairly sustained climbing being 40-50m which is awesome.

Jonny coming up the final bit of North West Arete.

Once we topped out of North West Arete we'd intended to do 'F' Route on the upper face which is another classic VS but unfortunately it looked quite wet and it was much windier then we expected so we dropped our expectations and instead headed up 'D' Route S+ *** quickly to get us to the top of the crag. The climbing on this was good for the grade and steady all the way up.

Heading down from Harrison Stickle to Stickle Tarn.

We topped out, de-geared and scrambled the rest of the way to the summit of Loft Crag before dropping down, back up over Harrison Stickle and down to Stickle Tarn in improving weather. We skirted round the lake and headed up Jack's Rake 1 the classic scramble to the horizontal ledge at about 2-3rds height where we geared up for the Golden Slipper HVS 4c,5a,4a ***.

Jonny coming up the final moves of the 5a slab on Golden Slipper.

I thought the first pitch was fairly soft for 4c, comparing it to the kind of moves North West Arete had on it at allegedly 4b. The meat of the route though is the second 5a pitch up the exposed steepening slab. Gear is better than it looks for the first half with you managing to find a bomber wire or small cam every 3-4m. Once you reach the top of the small corner on the slap it steepens again and you make quite tenuous traverse before topping out above your gear, you wouldn't deck if you fell but I still found it a little scary being right up their at the top of a reasonably big cliff! The climbing in on very abrasive and featured rhyolite, almost conglomerate like in its appearance which means its very pinchy and crimpy in nature and you have to make good use of your feet.

Myself at the top of Golden Slipper.

The final pitch is easy and we ran the rope out most of the way to the top of the crag before quickly de-gearing and running down to the New Dungeon Ghyll and then along the road back to the car. Excellent day, and it felt really good to get out and get some milage in on rock, climbing with sacks and get to the top of a few mountains.

Lake District Cragging

Its been quite a while since I updated my blog, I was very busy towards the end of June and start of July with graduating from university and then moving back home. I did however manage to squeeze a few good days in at the crag.

First was a mid-week trip to Langdale with Bec and we headed up to Raven Crag. We warmed up on Mendes VS 4c** which was good but felt fairly easy and amenable for the grade. The middle pitch (which can be combined with the first) is the meat of the route but the climbing isn't stiff for 4c. Next we did Holly Tree Direct HVS 4c*. Bec did the first pitch and then I did the crux, which I thought was stiff for 4c and it appears UKC agrees with this. Bec then lead the next pitch and I finished up to the top, its a good route and the crux is quite thought provoking. I was keen to jump on Pluto next but unfortunately the rain finally got us so we retreated for dinner and beer in the pub.

Penultimate belay on a wet Troutdale Pinnacle.

The weekend after we were in the Lakes again for LUMC's final weekend away of the summer. On the Friday evening we headed to Castle Rock of Tierman for a quick route before it went dark and did the classic Overhanging Bastion VS 5a***. I led the first two pitched in one leaving Bec the excellent 5a crux pitch which she cruised, before the short pitch to the top of the crag. The next day we went back to Castle Rock in the morning in the rain and Bec led Gangway Climb VD in the wet, the guidebook is certainly right when it says that protection is marginal in places. We then met Stubbs and headed over to Borrowdale where we went to Black Crag. Bec had been to go and do Troutdale Pinnacle on her first climbing trip to the Lakes back in November but bailed after the second pitch due to the horrendous weather and its one of Stubb's remaining Classic Rock ticks so it seemed like good objective for a wet day. The weather wasn't quite as bad as last time but we were still pretty wet, Stubbs did the first pitch, Bec the Second, Stubbs the third and then I finished up the final pitch. The final day of what had turned out to be a pretty moist weekend we were at quite a wet white ghyll where we did Slabs Route 1 S.

Bec leading Jean Jeanie.

In the last weekend of term we managed a quick morning trip to Trowbarrow where Bec manged to tick both Jean Jeanie VS 4c and Assagai HVS 5a.

Stubbs on Fishers Folly, just starting the traverse.

On the last day of term myself, Bec and Stubbs headed up to Shepherds Crag in Borrowdale for an excellent day of sunny climbing. First I did Kransic Crack Direct HVS 5a, which is a superb route that I've been wanting to do for a while. It starts with some steep, if a little polished crack climbing before throwing you into some steep moves through an overhang which ends with you finishing up massive jugs up the steep headwall - an absolutely fantastic route and highly recommended. Stubbs then did Fishers Folly VS 4c to the left which was also good fun. Bec finished off with Adam VS 5a running it all together in one big pitch. And for once we had blue skies all day.

Myself on Kransic Crack Direct.

All photos courtesy of Rebecca Hurst.

Esk Buttress & Scafell

I finished my exams on Monday morning, so an afternoon of celebrating with people in Lancaster, early yesterday myself, Zoe, Joe and Adam headed to the Lakes. I've climbed on a lot of the crags in the Lake District but somewhere I've always wanted to go is Esk Buttress in Eskdale. It's an fantastic piece of steep rock sitting above the marshy plains of upper Eskdale in a fantastic setting. We walked in getting there in a little over an hour and a half with, being inevitable as its upper Eskdale, myself and Zoe who were in trainers getting wet feet.

Awesome clean steep rock on Esk Buttress.

We started off up Bridges Route HS 4b as there was a party on the Square-cut Chimney start to Medusa wall. Bridge's route is fantastic for the grade and we did the meat of the route, doing the first three pitches, the final one which is a delicate exposed traverse. From the third belay Bridges Route traverse off via a few easy pitches to the right so we moved onto Medusa Wall VS 4c on the wonderful right-hand face of the prominent prow in the center of the wall. Two long pitches of excellent climbing led us to the top of the crag.

Medusa Wall, hight on Esk Buttress.

After topping out we scrambled up the final remaining 300-400m of height which lead us to the summit of Scafell Pike where we were rewarded with excellent views back to Lancaster, the wind farm in Morecambe bay, Isle of Man and Scotland. We headed down via the Broad Stand col, and resisted the temptation for a route on the East Buttress as it was getting late. Wet feet again on the walk across upper Eskdale and down Moseledale back to the car.

Highest top in England.

A fantastic day, it felt great to get out on a proper mountain journey, a long walk, climbing with a rucksack and scrambling, and excellent weather. If you've not climbed on Esk Buttress I highly reccomend it.

Photos courtesy of Zoe Taylor.

Raven Crag - Langdale

After a heavy week of revision in preparation for my remaining exams I took Saturday off to go out for a day climbing. The forecast wasn't great but a group of us from LUMC set off to Langdale with the intention of making our way up to Gimmer, however upon arrival and discovering some rather inclement weather we decided that the closer and lower Raven Crag above the Old Dungeon Ghyll would be a better option.

Guidebook perusing at the base of the crag, before the rain came.

I climbed with Bec, and first up we did Evening Wall S+ 4a* while most of the others headed for the classic Middlefell Buttress. Bec led the first pitch which is fairly short and standard, I then did the second just as it began to rain properly, which as I was climbing in my boots made it all the more interesting. The final pitch involves a delicate and exposed traverse to a hanging arete which is then followed to the top, Bec had this and its wonderful pitch.

Bec leading the crux of Evening Wall.

After the descent the rain came in again and we nearly bailed down to the pub, but after some persuasion and a little food we headed up to do Revelation HS* which I've done before. The route was pretty wet but we decided to give it ago anyway. Bec did an awesome job the first pitch considering conditions finding the start a bit tricky but the rest fine and even pulling through the bulge at the top of the pitch before the belay without issue. I then followed as it began to rain again and did the second pitch, which like last time was steep and juggy so not too bad in the wet. As I was getting to the top it began to rain heavily again, and then sleet, and then hail. Bec followed and got to the top just as we were both soaked to the skin, we hid under the overhang at the top for a while for the rain to ease before making a tactical retreat to the ODG for the rest of the afternoon.

Bec passing th crux of Evening Wall.

So not the best weather in the world, but we still got two good routes in and it just felt great to be out again, I've spent too much time pouring over textbooks and papers. for the last few weeks.

Photos courtesy of Rebecca Hurst.

Easter Weekend - Lake District

Over the the Easter holiday weekend I was up in the Lake District on the Network Gathering based out of GT. On the Friday afternoon I took a group out scrambling with Stu Spencer, Gassy and two punters, we did the ever classic pinnacle ridge on St Sunday Crag. The weather was superb, I didn't put a shirt on all day and had my pants rolled up to my knees.

Perfect weather, and no other parties on Pinnacle Ridge.

We were quite late in the day leaving the car park at only 3pm, but this ensured we had the ridge to ourselves. Everybody had a good time, and we got some fantastic views from the summit before a jog down the ridge and a few nice cold pints in the Patterdale hotel.

Saturday the weather wasn't as kind to us, with the clag being fairly low down so myself, Lewis, Nancy, Barry and Olly went and did the classic round of Crinkle Crags and Bowfell. Being a bankholiday weekend it was swamped with tourists so we didn't get much solitude, but at least we fitted in as I'd forgotten my boots so did the round in my flip flops - who needs £200 Sportiva boots?

Sunday we headed back to Langdale for some cragging. We staggered up to White Ghyll in sweltering heat and decided to do the climb the classic Slip Knot VS 4b **. The first pitch is fantastic face climbing steep all the way. The second pitch is the crux with a tricky but again well protected traverse out onto a hanging rib, a few moves pulling over this bulge get you to easier ground. An absolutely superb route. Next up we moved up to the upper crag and did The Slabs Route 1 S 4a ** which is given 4 pitches over 69m but we managed with 60m ropes, lots of long runners and a bit of alpine trickery do it one massive pitch. It felt great to be climbing continuously for such a long way.

First pitch of Zig-Zag, approaching the crux.

Monday, myself, Stu and Julie headed up to Castle Rock of Tiermain for the afternoon. First we did Via Media S+, its given two pitches in the guidebook but I quite happily lead in one long one. Next up we went to do Zig Zag VS 4b which has an awesome first pitch which climbs a leftward slanting ramp with some tricky moves here and there. Having left the guidebook at the bottom we made a slight navigational error and ended up doing the crux pitch of Overhanging Bastion VS+ 5a which, as it was the last time I did, absolutely superb. I wasn't too bothered about missing the second half of Zig-Zag as I'd done it before when I climbed May Day Cracks.

Julie following Overhanging Bastion.

I caught a lift home with Stubbs and Rachael, and as we'd been climbing that day, Imran's naturally followed in Lancaster.

All photos courtesy of Stuart Spencer.

Trowbarrow

Sunday afternoon, after some getting some work done in the morning I couldn't resist the urge to head back out for some more climbing in the afternoon so after lunch myself, Gaz, Claire and Ben headed up to Trowbarrow for a few hours. My goal for the day was do Harijan VS 4c as its the only route of the grade I've not done at Trowbarrow. We jumped straight on it and I lead off, the move round the corner from under the overhang is pretty scary but well protected with cams in the break. After this theres 25-30m of fantastic vertical climbing up the crack system. It is steep and is is sustained but the holds are all there and you can get reasonable rests from time to time. Its also well protected throughout. Only one slightly worrying moment where my sunglasses steamed up and I couldn't see for a few moments... I was pretty pumped when I got to the top, built the belay and then Gaz followed in good time.

We went down and eyed up Hollow Earth, which is just to the right of Harijan but HVS and looks really good but is supposed to be quite hard for the grade so decided to leave it for a little later in the season when we're a bit stronger. We then rested for a while, filming and photographing Claire on her first VS lead, Coral Sea which she did an excellent job on. Gaz put the above video together, watch it in higher quality on facebook. A few laps of soloing Barrier Reef S 4a next to it and we were done for the day, back to to Lancaster for fajitas and beer.

Lake District Cragging: Raven & Wallowbarrow

Friday the forecast was promising for the afternoon, so myself and Stu took a leisurely morning leaving late and then doing some shopping in Ambleside. It looked to have dried out so we headed over to Raven Crag above the ODG in Langdale. The rock was damp when we first arrived so we started off with The Original Route S 4a ***, its given 4 pitches in the guidebook but in usual fashion we managed to halve this running one + two and three + four together without any real issues. The final two pitches have some really nice face climbing on them on big holds, its certainly a route worth doing if its at your grade or on a wet day.

Myself leading Revelation.

Next up we did Revelation HS * which I led in one long pitch of 43m, excellent steep juggy climbing all the way. We topped out and were briefly tempted by Muscle Crack E1 5c/6a even thought it was a bit wet. I got halfway up it but coulden't get my jams to stick in the greasy crack so reversed it and came down, I'd be keen to go back for a crack on a dry day though. For our last route we did Bilberry Buttress VS+ 4c which was excellent, especially the two crux pitches at the start. That evening we drove over to the Duddon Valley to hook up with Ash, and unexpectedly Stubbs and Rachael.

The Plough at Wallowbarrow.

Wallowbarrow was Sunday destination, and in our slightly hungover states we started easy with Nameless S 3c doing it in two pitches. Next we did Malediction Direct VS 4c ** with Stu doing the approach pitch and me leading the 4c one, which was excellent steep climbing. Highly recommended. We then swapped roles and did the same approach pitch but this time Ash lead off up The Plumb VS 4c which again was great. I ambitiously (being lazy) seconded it in my trainers and due to complacency popped off the greasy polished holds below the chimney! We then moved over to the far buttress where Ash lead off up The Plough HVS 5b which is a excellent route, technical face climbing before a jamming crack finish - and much better protected then it initially looked. I then did Paradise VS 4c next to it which gives a long pitch of climbing with interesting sections but is certainly a soft touch at 4c.

Jade Jauquet Photography

My friend Jade Jauquet from the States came out climbing with us at Trowbarrow a few weeks ago, he's a really talented photography and took some really good photos some of which I thought I'd share below:

Bec placing gear before the crux of Jomo.

Belaying at the top of Assagai.

Climber at the top of Jomo.

Bec leading Coral Sea.

Jade following on Coral Sea.

Black Diamond catalog?

Myself at the top of Assagai, as the sun set.
(Hard to believe this was Lancashire in March, two days before I went ice-climbing on the Ben!)

The above aren't in anywhere near enough high enough resolution for you appreciate them so I urge you to take a look at them, and the many others on his Flikr Photostream.