Sunday 7 August 2011

Lake District Cragging

Its been quite a while since I updated my blog, I was very busy towards the end of June and start of July with graduating from university and then moving back home. I did however manage to squeeze a few good days in at the crag.

First was a mid-week trip to Langdale with Bec and we headed up to Raven Crag. We warmed up on Mendes VS 4c** which was good but felt fairly easy and amenable for the grade. The middle pitch (which can be combined with the first) is the meat of the route but the climbing isn't stiff for 4c. Next we did Holly Tree Direct HVS 4c*. Bec did the first pitch and then I did the crux, which I thought was stiff for 4c and it appears UKC agrees with this. Bec then lead the next pitch and I finished up to the top, its a good route and the crux is quite thought provoking. I was keen to jump on Pluto next but unfortunately the rain finally got us so we retreated for dinner and beer in the pub.

Penultimate belay on a wet Troutdale Pinnacle.

The weekend after we were in the Lakes again for LUMC's final weekend away of the summer. On the Friday evening we headed to Castle Rock of Tierman for a quick route before it went dark and did the classic Overhanging Bastion VS 5a***. I led the first two pitched in one leaving Bec the excellent 5a crux pitch which she cruised, before the short pitch to the top of the crag. The next day we went back to Castle Rock in the morning in the rain and Bec led Gangway Climb VD in the wet, the guidebook is certainly right when it says that protection is marginal in places. We then met Stubbs and headed over to Borrowdale where we went to Black Crag. Bec had been to go and do Troutdale Pinnacle on her first climbing trip to the Lakes back in November but bailed after the second pitch due to the horrendous weather and its one of Stubb's remaining Classic Rock ticks so it seemed like good objective for a wet day. The weather wasn't quite as bad as last time but we were still pretty wet, Stubbs did the first pitch, Bec the Second, Stubbs the third and then I finished up the final pitch. The final day of what had turned out to be a pretty moist weekend we were at quite a wet white ghyll where we did Slabs Route 1 S.

Bec leading Jean Jeanie.

In the last weekend of term we managed a quick morning trip to Trowbarrow where Bec manged to tick both Jean Jeanie VS 4c and Assagai HVS 5a.

Stubbs on Fishers Folly, just starting the traverse.

On the last day of term myself, Bec and Stubbs headed up to Shepherds Crag in Borrowdale for an excellent day of sunny climbing. First I did Kransic Crack Direct HVS 5a, which is a superb route that I've been wanting to do for a while. It starts with some steep, if a little polished crack climbing before throwing you into some steep moves through an overhang which ends with you finishing up massive jugs up the steep headwall - an absolutely fantastic route and highly recommended. Stubbs then did Fishers Folly VS 4c to the left which was also good fun. Bec finished off with Adam VS 5a running it all together in one big pitch. And for once we had blue skies all day.


Myself on Kransic Crack Direct.

All photos courtesy of Rebecca Hurst.

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