Monday I headed out to Gouther Crag near Shap with Gaz and Claire. We got Hernia E1 5b and Sostenuto HVS+ 5a before having a play on Bloodhound E2 5c and One Step Beyond E3 6a.
We've got some footage from the day which I'm going to try and compile into a small film if I get the time.
Thursday 20 October 2011
Saturday 15 October 2011
Back to Borrowdale: Black Crag & Shephards
Ash, Martin and myself headed up to Borrowdale for the day last Saturday to try and catch what we thought could be the last good day of sunny climbing before we end up in the depths of Autumn. First up was Black Crag, I've climbed quite a few times at Black Crag but only ever done Troutdale Pinnacle, usually in the rain with novices in tow.
We decided on Troutdale Pinnacle Superdirect HVS 5a***. Martin took the first lead up some slabs and then a traverse across to meet up with the first belay of the normal route. Above this I then lead a 4c pitch which was uneventful. Ash then did the 3rd pitch which is a steep 5a offwidth crack, seconding I actually found it easier to climb the face on the left hand side but this could be a touch bold on lead. I then took the 4th which is the second 5a pitch and listed as the crux in the guidebook, a finger traverse along a thin crack followed by some steep moves up to the pinnacle. I thought it wasn't too stiff for 5a and it well protected throughout. Martin then did the final honours of finishing up the last pitch of the normal route to the top.
We packed gear, headed down to the car and drove down to Shepherd's cafe where we refuelled with cake before heading up to the crag to tackle the two pitch P.S. E1 5b **. I did the first pitch which was 5a but felt pretty steep and sustained ending up at rather cramped peg belay. Ash and Martin followed having similar difficulties with Martin popping off at one point and taking a chunk out of his finger. Ash then did the top pitch with is shorter but with one tricky 5b move. It is a bit of a one move wonder, and it is well protected with two good pieces but that doesn't take much away from it, after a few goes and a few rests working out wear to go Ash got through it and then me and Martin followed. Excellent fun.
On the pinnacle of Black Crag.
We decided on Troutdale Pinnacle Superdirect HVS 5a***. Martin took the first lead up some slabs and then a traverse across to meet up with the first belay of the normal route. Above this I then lead a 4c pitch which was uneventful. Ash then did the 3rd pitch which is a steep 5a offwidth crack, seconding I actually found it easier to climb the face on the left hand side but this could be a touch bold on lead. I then took the 4th which is the second 5a pitch and listed as the crux in the guidebook, a finger traverse along a thin crack followed by some steep moves up to the pinnacle. I thought it wasn't too stiff for 5a and it well protected throughout. Martin then did the final honours of finishing up the last pitch of the normal route to the top.
Martin leading the top pitch with blue skies overhead.
We packed gear, headed down to the car and drove down to Shepherd's cafe where we refuelled with cake before heading up to the crag to tackle the two pitch P.S. E1 5b **. I did the first pitch which was 5a but felt pretty steep and sustained ending up at rather cramped peg belay. Ash and Martin followed having similar difficulties with Martin popping off at one point and taking a chunk out of his finger. Ash then did the top pitch with is shorter but with one tricky 5b move. It is a bit of a one move wonder, and it is well protected with two good pieces but that doesn't take much away from it, after a few goes and a few rests working out wear to go Ash got through it and then me and Martin followed. Excellent fun.
Monday 10 October 2011
Adventure Racing - Splash & Dash
Last Sunday I took part in an adventure race in the Lake District run by West Lancashire Scouts. Its run a relay race for younger members with each team supplying a pair to compete in each stage and then pass the baton on to the next pair until the final stage which is a group fell run. There are however a limited number of places available for pair to enter and complete the entire race. I did this a few years ago with Martin Freeman and we did fairly well, only thwarted by a chain malfunction on the bike stage. We decided to give it another go this year and added Stuart Spencer to our ranks to make a trio.
We headed up on Saturday during the heatwave with our support driver Mark Fonze Gilham and got in a few hours cragging at Trowbarrow on the way (Assagai HVS 5a, Sluice HVS 5a & Coral Sea VS 4c) before picking up a curry from Windermere and heading to the briefing.
The next morning we were the last to set off in the starting placings. The first event was a orienteering course around great tower campsite, followed by a run down to a staging area on the southern banks of Windermere. we did the course fairly quickly and managed to tick all the controls. Next up was the canadian canoeing, up the eastern shores of the lake.
Once we reached the end canoeing section we jumped out of our boats and into sea kayaks, paddling another course which led us to the western shores of the lake. This was the start of the mountain biking course which took us through Grizedale forest, over the top of Lake Coniston ending up at Tilberthwaite.
Here we had to complete a mental challenge, which as definitely our week point. From here started the final leg, which was in atrocious weather a run from Tilberthwaite up and over the fells and down in Coniston. We came 2nd in the rankings, and only by a matter of minutes which over a 6 hours race we thought was pretty good. Had it of not been for our downfalling on the mental challenge I think we would of won.
We headed up on Saturday during the heatwave with our support driver Mark Fonze Gilham and got in a few hours cragging at Trowbarrow on the way (Assagai HVS 5a, Sluice HVS 5a & Coral Sea VS 4c) before picking up a curry from Windermere and heading to the briefing.
Myself sea kayaking on Windermere.
The next morning we were the last to set off in the starting placings. The first event was a orienteering course around great tower campsite, followed by a run down to a staging area on the southern banks of Windermere. we did the course fairly quickly and managed to tick all the controls. Next up was the canadian canoeing, up the eastern shores of the lake.
Martin dibbing as we left the Bike section start.
Once we reached the end canoeing section we jumped out of our boats and into sea kayaks, paddling another course which led us to the western shores of the lake. This was the start of the mountain biking course which took us through Grizedale forest, over the top of Lake Coniston ending up at Tilberthwaite.
Finishing the bike section at Tilberthwaite.
Here we had to complete a mental challenge, which as definitely our week point. From here started the final leg, which was in atrocious weather a run from Tilberthwaite up and over the fells and down in Coniston. We came 2nd in the rankings, and only by a matter of minutes which over a 6 hours race we thought was pretty good. Had it of not been for our downfalling on the mental challenge I think we would of won.
Struggling with anagrams.
It was an excellent day and a big thanks to all those that organised it, I'm sure we'll be back next year.
Tuesday 4 October 2011
Gowder Crag
Bec, having just got back from Germany was keen to make the most of the end of the summer and head out climbing so along with some friends with headed to Borrowdale. We decided upon Gowder Crag, which sits just north of Shepherd's Crag something I've never climbed before.
We decided on Fools Paradise VS 4c which is 6 pitches in the guidebook, we were using Lake District Rock, the select guide for the area of which this route is the only one in it for the crag. I was climbing with Jonny and Bec, and due to my inadequate packing skills the evening before I'd forgotten to pack Bec's rock shoes, which I meant I had to lead everything, and she had to climb VS in boots which she ended up doing a very good job of!
I ran the first two together, of which the first was a little green and mossy but it soon got better. The third pitch was a interesting traverse involving a bit of smear which Bec took a little tumble on being in boots. Next up was a steep groove pitch, another traverse and then the final back-foot classic chimney to finish. While I thought the route was quite soft at the grade it was really varied which made it interesting. One thing to note is that if your planning on going to do it there is quite a bit of loose debris below the final pitch due to some recent rock fall so be careful. I skipped the belay here to avoid anybody having to loiter around on the ledge and potentially knock anything off.
Myself leading the first pitch.
We decided on Fools Paradise VS 4c which is 6 pitches in the guidebook, we were using Lake District Rock, the select guide for the area of which this route is the only one in it for the crag. I was climbing with Jonny and Bec, and due to my inadequate packing skills the evening before I'd forgotten to pack Bec's rock shoes, which I meant I had to lead everything, and she had to climb VS in boots which she ended up doing a very good job of!
Bec enjoying VS chimney climbing in boots.
Enjoying a apres-climb cake in Shephards Cafe.
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