Panty Wall, Red Rocks

For our second day of climbing in Red Rocks we chose to have a shorty day so headed to Panty Wall, one of the areas easily accessible from the first pull-out of the scenic loop road. Panty Wall sits within an area of vivid red sandstone outcrops known as the Calico Hills that Red Rocks draws its name from. The climbing here is generally smaller with many single pitch routes compared to the larger ones that sit to west in the Rainbow Mountain Wilderness area where we had been climbing on the previous day, in addition many of the lines here are bolted sport routes.

Myself leading Brief Encounter, 5.8**.

Pant Wall itself is only one of many of the venues but perhaps the most accessible of near routes, so much so that a few hundred meters away you'll find tourists on day trip from Vegas gawking at you, and if your lucky perhaps even get the odd fly by from a helicopter giving a tour of the area! There are about 15 routes on the wall ranging from 5.7 to 5.12b but with most concentrated in the 7,8,9,10 area. We climbed most of bolted lines up to 5.10 which felt about French 6a/b. I had carried the rack up with us to venture further and try some of the trad lines but the day was exceedingly warm so by mid afternoon we decided to call it a day and head back to the campsite to find some shade. Climbing in the desert is not easy.

We had a couple more days climbing in Red Rocks after this, and for those and the two climbs I've documented already we used Jerry Handren's Red Rocks: A Climber's Guide. I found it to be accurate and reasonably comprehensive, at nearly 400 pages I'm not going to run out of things to do from it! The mixture of Rockfaxx style picture diagrams and classic North American topographic drawings of the routes is fantastic and well thought out. The only downside is you need to have access to, or have the foresight to photocopy the routes you intend to do as you might as well carry a brick around with you!

Cat in the Hat, Red Rocks

I'm back in the UK, and back up at Lancaster currently starting work on my dissertation. This is the first of a few articles detailing a few of my preferred routes that I did throughout the states last month.

'Cat in the Hat' was the first multi-pitch route we did on the May trip. Its in the Red Rocks climbing area of Nevada, which is conveniently about 20 minutes west of Las Vegas. Most climbers use the BLM 13 Mile Campground which was charging $15 a night for pitch when we were there, apparently a $5 increase on the previous year. The pitches are nice, widely spaces and each has a pull-in for your car, a picnic bench and a BBQ/fire-pit. There is running water, but no showers - I'm informed there are some showers at the local climbing wall on Charleston Boulevard which climber from the site often use. If you've got a little more cash then we have you could splash out and stay in Vegas itself, the advantages being obvious but the downside being you've got 20 minutes to drive each morning.

Mescalito, Cat in the Hat follows the left hand ridge line.

Mescalito is a pyramid shaped peak that splits Pines Canyon into its upper and lower variations, its is composed of hard desert sandstone like most of the rock in the area with large portions that are 'varnished' - a black harder coating that forms of the surface of the sandstone due to weathering. There are several routes on the peak which towers approximately 450m from its base in the canyon. Most routes however only reach a maximum of 300m due to the angle and quality of rock decreasing the top section. The approach is around 40 minutes heading west from the 5th pull-out on the scenic loop ring road. Entrance to this ring road costs $7 per car, this does ensure though that it is in good quality, car parking is reasonably secure and there are bathrooms at all of the stops. Just make sure to get there early as once the tourists hit it in the afternoon they drive slowly.

We choose 'Cat in the Hat', and 300m rote given 5.6+ which ascends the southern ridge of Mescalito for 7 pitches, and is rightfully given 5 stars. The first pitch follows a leftward slanting crack system through a steep section, which eventually widens with a final tricky move over the top. This is given YDS 5.5, which depending which grade conversion table you read, fits somewhere around British severe - which I think is about right. I thought it was a bit under-graded at first but in hindsight this was the first pitch of proper traditional climbing I'd done in nearly a year so I was probably a little out of practice. From here a short pitch follows to a lovely bolted belay on a large ledge, we manged to run these two together as we were climbing on 60m ropes, you would run a little short on 50's though.

After a bimble across the ledge a short boulderly move allows to you gain another crack system in a corner and follow this upwards to shady belay on ledge by a small tree. The next pitch (4th in the guidebook) is a close contender for the best pitch of the route, and only just gets beaten by the final pitch of the route. First it climbs a finger crack up to a roof where some delicate moves are required leftwards across a pocketed slab until you can pull through the overhang on good holds and finish up another finger crack above.

Having just pulled through the roof of the 4th pitch.

A easy (5.3 YDS) traverse pitch then follows bringing you to the base of the 6th pitch, nearly 50m of fantastic climbing high on the ridge of Mescalito in very airy and exposed position. It begins by following a hand/finger crack up a fairly steep, varnished sandstone face - moderately protected with mid size nuts and cams all the way. After about 30m the crack begins to narrow and then runs out leaving you on a wide rounded sandstone ridge high above the desert - the position is awesome if a little intimidating. A few moves and you clip a single bolt and catch your breath before making gently padding further up blank wall on blank sandstone for about 6m (British 4b) to very reassuring flake which leads you easily to the top.

From here you can carry up some 4th class ground to the summit or rappel from the bolted anchor. We chose to leave the scramble for another day due the loose nature of the rock higher up and rappelled from he anchor, getting down in 4 full 60m rappels.