Coire an t'Scneachda: Aladdin's Mirror Direct, The Runnel & Fingers Ridge

After my stint on the West Coast I had a quick turn around and headed back up to the East with LUMC on Monday for some climbing and skiing. The first day myself, Struggles, Joe and Toby headed into Scneachda for some climbing. Conditions under foot were very icy with some parties putting crampons on at the ski car park for the entirety of the walk in.

Struggles climbing his first IV.

We got to the rescue box in good time and geared up, before splitting into two pairs with Joe and Toby heading up towards trident gullies area and myself and Struggles heading up to Aladdin's Mirror Direct IV 4 ***. The route was in good conditions, giving a good 20m pitch of ice, of which about 12m was probably vertical, the rest being just off. I lead it and then Struggles followed and did really well for somebody whose only done a few easy gullys before, and he was climbing with two walking axes! Once at the top we chose to abseil back down as a pose to walking round on the Mirror as their is a good in-situ belay (3 pegs and block with a sling around it) in place at the top.

Struggles abseiling down from Mirror Direct.

Next up, we traverse across to the trident gullies area and chased Joe and Toby up The Runnel II ***. I think we did 5 pitches but we climbed quickly as conditions we nice firm neve with me leading and Struggles following. The narrow chimney at the top was good fun, we took the lefthand exit. Once on the top we made our way across to and then down the Goat Track before tucking ourselves behind a boulder for some lunch.

Struggles coming through the cornice on the Runnel.

We then headed over to Finger's Ridge IV 4 *** hoping for a quick ascent before we lost the light, Joe and Toby were on Broken Gully next too us. The first pitch was fantastic with great mixed climbing that was continually interesting, the rock was hoared and all the crack were filled with hard ice which made gear sparse in places but the climbing easier. Joe was having some difficultly below me having got off route so once at the belay I dropped him a loop and brought both him and Struggles up, and then Toby. The next pitch up to the Fingers looked awesome and I was keen for it but the other were pretty cold and the light was failing so made the decision to bail. We abbed off the the spike that can be threaded at the belay and got to the bottom (just!) in one 50m rappel. Certainly will be going back for another go as it was awesome.